Once you have fallen for the embroidery, the next question is what it is made of. The fabric decides how a piece feels at 3 p.m., how it drapes, and how much care it needs. This guide compares the fabrics we actually use at Lucknow Threads, cotton, modal cotton, rayon and Chanderi silk, so you can choose for your day, your climate and your budget.
The short answer
- Cotton for hot days, travel and everyday wear. It is the traditional base for chikankari and shows the stitching most clearly.
- Modal cotton for a soft, flowy fall at an easy everyday price.
- Rayon for drape and polish, especially work-to-dinner outfits.
- Chanderi silk for weddings, festive evenings and anything you want to feel a little luminous.
If you are buying your first chikankari piece and want the lowest-risk choice, start with cotton or modal cotton.
Cotton vs rayon vs Chanderi silk at a glance
| Fabric | Feels like | Best for | Our styles (CAD, October 2026) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cotton | Crisp, matte, airy | Hot days, travel, daily wear | Asra from $75, Noori mul cotton kurta $50, cotton plazos from $35 |
| Modal cotton | Smooth, cool, softly fluid | Comfortable everyday dressing | Maira co-ord sets from $50 |
| Rayon | Silky, lightweight, flowy | Office to dinner, drape | Inaya short kurtis from $40, Ayat and Layla co-ord sets from $75 |
| Chanderi silk | Lustrous, light, luminous | Weddings, festive occasions | Samaira kurtas from $50, Ziva and Geet co-ord sets from $79 |
Cotton: the traditional base for chikankari
Chikankari began on fine, light cottons, and cotton is still the fabric that shows the craft best. Its matte surface lets each stitch read clearly, and it stays comfortable through long, warm days. If you want to understand what makes the embroidery itself special, start with our guide to what chikankari is.
Our Asra collection is made in breathable Swiss cotton, and the co-ord sets carry about 40 hours of shadow work and full jaal embroidery. For something lighter, the Noori kurta is mul cotton, and our embroidered plazos are cotton too.
Choose cotton if you run warm, travel often, or want one piece you can wear on repeat.
Modal cotton: soft and easy every day
Modal cotton sits between cotton and rayon. It has a smooth, cool feel against the skin and a flowing fall, without the structure of a crisp cotton. Our Maira collection is built on it, with flowy full co-ord sets that start at $50.
Choose modal cotton if you want softness and movement at an accessible price.
Rayon: drape and polish
Rayon is light and silky, and it falls close to the body in a way cotton does not. That makes it a natural fit for office days that turn into dinner. You will find it in the Ayat and Layla co-ord sets, in the Zoya sets with their festive muqaish kamdani shimmer, and in the Inaya short kurtis.
One thing to know: rayon is weaker when wet, so wash it gently and never wring it. Our hand wash guide covers the steps.
Choose rayon if drape and a dressier finish matter more to you than maximum breathability.
Chanderi silk: for occasions
Chanderi is a lightweight, lustrous weave traditionally made from silk and cotton. Paired with chikankari it gives a soft glow that suits weddings and celebrations. Explore it in the Ziva and Geet co-ord sets, or in our Samaira kurtas. For more detail on the fabric, read our Chanderi silk guide.
Choose Chanderi silk if you are dressing for a wedding, Diwali, Eid or another festive evening.
What about chiffon?
Chiffon is a sheer, lightweight fabric often used for dupattas. If you want that airy finish with a set, our chiffon dupattas in the Dupatta & Pants collection start at $30.
How to choose for life in Canada
- Humid summer days: cotton, for breathability.
- Office or air-conditioned days: rayon or modal cotton, for a smooth, polished drape.
- Weddings and festive evenings: Chanderi silk, or a rayon Zoya set with kamdani detail.
- Travel: cotton, because it is the easiest to pack and care for.
- First purchase: cotton or modal cotton, for the best mix of ease and value.
Frequently asked questions
Which fabric is best for chikankari?
There is no single best fabric. Cotton is the traditional choice and shows the embroidery most clearly, while rayon, modal cotton and Chanderi silk each offer a different drape and finish. Choose by how and where you will wear it.
Is rayon good for chikankari?
Yes. Rayon gives chikankari a soft, flowing look. It needs gentler washing than cotton, so follow the care label and hand wash when in doubt.
What is the best chikankari fabric for summer?
Cotton is the best choice for hot, humid weather because of its breathability.
Is Chanderi silk worth it?
If you want a piece for weddings or festive events, yes. Its lustre makes the embroidery look luminous.
Do you ship across Canada?
Yes. We ship from Toronto to customers across Canada.
Find your fabric
Browse all chikankari kurtis or chikankari co-ord sets, or read how to choose an authentic Lucknowi hand embroidery shop.