Chikankari is not one stitch. It is a family of more than a dozen stitches, each with its own look. Knowing a few of them helps you recognise real hand embroidery and choose a piece you will love. Here are the ones you see most often.
Bakhiya (shadow work)
Worked on the back of the fabric so the thread shows through as a soft shadow on the front. It gives the delicate, almost ghostly look chikankari is known for. Our Asra collection is built around shadow work.
Ghas patti and phool paati
Ghas patti is a pattern of leaf-shaped motifs that looks like blades of grass. You can see it on our Layla sets. Phool paati is a flower-and-leaf motif, seen on our Ayat sets.
Other stitches to know
- Phanda: tiny knot-like stitches that form the centres of flowers and small motifs.
- Murri: small, slightly raised stitches shaped like grains of rice, often used for flower centres.
- Jali: a net-like openwork made by gently pulling threads apart instead of covering them. It adds lightness and texture.
- Tepchi: a long, simple running stitch used for outlines and borders.
How to see them on your garment
Turn the fabric over. Hand embroidery has small knots and slightly uneven thread ends on the back, and no two motifs are exactly alike. Our guide to authentic chikankari lists more checks.
Learn more
Start with what chikankari is, or browse the co-ord sets.